Italy, Grand Duchy of Tuscany. A Rare Order of Saint Stephen, Knight Set, c.1800

(Sacro Militare Ordine di Santo Stefano Papa e Martire). Instituted 1561. An exceptionally rare and early Knight set, comprising a bronze gilt Maltese cross with smooth red stones in each arm with in delicately scalloped gilt borders, large smooth gilt lillies in each quadrant, a central glass stone presents facets on the obverse with a smooth reverse (the only differentiating feature of the obverse and reverse), an integral ring sits in the knee of the 12 o’clock arm, measures 77.45mm (w) x 85.13mm (h – inclusive of integral ring), weighs 52.8 grams (including sash segment), worn on original red sash segment measuring 690mm in length, the cross presents light scratches and wear to the glass arms, the central lighter coloured stone demonstrates an air pocket in the glass and scratches/wear on both sides from contact, gilt is well preserved, the central glass and 12 o’clock glass arm are both slightly loose, a most rare cross with rich history, remains in very fine condition.

The embroidered star of the order, comprising a red foil Maltese cross with bullion wire and sequins detailing the obverse arms, with lillies represented by sequins and a threaded background, with a reinforced paper backing, measures 58.96mm (w) x 58.85mm (h), weighs 2.3 grams, fraying to thread and bullion at multiple arm tips, glue residue on reverse, with light cracking and wear to backing, remains in very fine condition.

Accompanied by a brief iconography of the cross through Italian paintings.

Footnote: The Distinguished Sacred Military Order of Saint Stephen Pope and Martyr is a religious order of chivalry of papal foundation. Founded by Cosimo I de’Medici in October 1561, the objective of the order was to protect the Catholic church by fighting the Ottoman Turks and the pirates that sailed the Mediterranean Sea in the 16th century. The symbol was to unite the nobility of the different cities that conformed the new grand duchy.

This order, and specifically this type of cross, has a rich history. It can be seen depicted in portraits as early as the late 1500s (worn by Grand Duke Francesco I de’Medici in 1584, although missing the central stone and lillies in the quadrants), identifying the prominence of both the order and its wearer. During the 16th century, the cross remained small and simple, with the only specimens intended for important and reigning personalities.

The Baroque period brought an enrichment of the decoration, undoubtedly proving the direction the cross would take in the future. By the early 1600s, crosses with details between the arms being to appear in portraits, such as in the painting of Antonio Camaiani, Master of the Chamber of the Grand Duke Ferdinando I. In the Sutterman portrait of Cosimo II from the 17th century, the cross is far more elaborate, presenting four rubies of different shapes, a central diamond, and lillies between the arms.

It is in the 1630s, via a portrait of Ferdinando II (1621-1670), that the cross is shown with stones for arms in a golden setting, with a ring and counter ring position and the top of the upper arm. The order was abolished in 1859 by the annexation of Tuscany to the Kingdom of Sardinia.