Germany, Kriegsmarine. A Rare Admiral’s Leather Greatcoat

(Kriegsmarine Ledermantel). A well-preserved Kriegsmarine Captain's leather greatcoat. Of two-piece construction, it consists of a multi-piece dark grey leather exterior shell, featuring a wide collar which transitions into double-breast flaps. Each shoulder is adorned with a board, constructed of cardboard-reinforced dark blue wool and bearing four bands of interwoven silver aluminum wire piping. Each board is pinned with two gilded rank pips, with three constructed of zink and one magnetic metal replacement pip. Measuring 40 mm (w) x 105 mm (l), the boards are secured in place by an integrated machine-stitched loop at the outer edge, and by a gilded aluminum button on the inner edge, itself featuring a raised fouled anchor. The cuff of each sleeve is rolled up to a depth of 150 mm and secured in place by a machine stitching around the circumference.

Dual diagonal side pockets are located near the beltline, and open with reinforced flaps. The breast flaps are closed with dual vertical arrangements of six gilded bronze buttons on each side meeting analogous reinforced buttonholes on the opposite flap. Bearing raised fouled anchor designs, all buttons are maker marked on the reverse with the logo of F.W. Assmann & Söhne, Lüdenscheid. Completing the exterior of the shell is an integrated belt located at the reverse, consisting of two leather straps, one bearing dual buttons, of identical construction to the former, meeting two reinforced buttonholes on the analogous strap. A grey rayon liner fully encompasses the interior, with two interior pockets located at the upper breast flaps, opening with leather-reinforced horizontal slits, with an additional smaller slit at the lower left breast flap for the accommodation of a dagger hanger. The interior seam of the shell retains 29 functional magnetic metal snap buttons meeting an equal number of studs emanating from leather straps on the interior. The snap buttons accommodate a removable original dark grey wool interior liner, similarly bearing an equal number of studs for secure attachment to the coat. Notably, this original matching liner features leather reinforced slits which allow the wearer to access all of the shell pockets when it is in wear. Fully unmarked, the coat measures approximately 510 mm across the shoulders, with an arm length of 640 mm and an overall body length of 1290 mm. Minor issues consistent with age and field use are evident, including slight material fatigue to both the leather and fabric elements, along with the replacement of some buttons with period correct pieces. Near extremely fine condition.

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