(Ritterorden vom Goldenen Vlies). Instituted by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, in 1429 as an expression of the wealth of the Burgundy Duke. Austrian Version. 1925-1935 Issue. Of superb quality manufacture and quality enamels, an exquisite Order of the Golden Fleece in Gold, consisting of an Austria’s typical facing-front heraldic figure of the Golden Fleece with scratched details for the fur texture, attached on the top to a set of highly detailed Burgundy flames applique in splendid red enamels, with a central bulge medallion in black enamels and delineate enameled white sparks, surmounted by an adorned partially-enamelled decorative link in the form of a fire-steel striker, showing in relief a portrayal of Jason fighting the dragon beneath of the inscription PRETIUM LABORUM NON VILE (NO MEAN REWARD FOR LABOURS), on the reverse is a portrayal in relief of Gideon fighting the Midianites and above it the inscription NON ALIUD (I WILL HAVE NO OTHER), accompanied by a nicely ornamented partially-enamelled knot on the ribbon also in Gold, presenting maker’s mark CFR of C. F. Rothe, one of the most recognized European makers of insignia, along with German hallmark denoting 18 carats Gold, measuring 53.27 mm (w) x 92.70 mm (h), weighing 64.2gr (inclusive of ribbon and ornamented knot), minor faded red enamels, suspended by elegant loop suspension on original neck ribbon, av ery attractive and extremely rare item in near mint condition.
Footnote: The Order of the Golden Fleece was instituted by Philip III, Duke of Burgundy on January 10, 1429 (or 1430). It was founded on occasion of his third marriage with Isabella of Portugal, and as a declaration of the wealth of Burgundy and his desire to separate the Duke from the Kingdom of France. Originally, in the early sixteenth century under Charles V, and by his decree, the Fleece alone was usually worn on ordinary occasions, suspended by a thin red ribbon, but sometimes from a black one. Phillip II of Spain favored black, perhaps originally as a sign of mourning. Gradually, during the course of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, the Spanish love of glory and elaborate ceremony led to an elaboration of the bijou. Elements from the collar, the pierre a fois and briquet, were added one above the other. Finally a decorative ribbon knot appeared to complete the final design. Even when the Order was reclaimed by Austria following the extinction of the Spanish Habsburgs these decorative elements were retained.