United Kingdom. A Lancastrian Livery Collar of Esses in Gold, by J. W. Bennett, c.1890

A rarely offered and desirable Livery Collar of Esses, finely crafted in 18ct Gold, consisting of four clusters of four scrolled ‘S’ shaped links, each separated by three Heraldic symbols of the portcullises, central link presenting a Victorian Crowned Floral Badge of the United Kingdom (a Scottish Thistle, an English Tudor Rose and an Irish Shamrock), with inscribed banner across the joined stems “DIEU ET MON DROIT” (God and My Right), each link is separated via three small looped chain links on the top link and two small with one larger link on the bottom, reverse of each link is plain, with functional large push clip clasp directly opposite the central link, measuring 37mm (w -stem to surmounting crown) x 495 mm (l - inclusive of push clip clasp), weighting 113 grams, near to mint. Accompanied by original hardshell corrugated circular case in brown, with interior lid in white silk and deep purple velvet bed, presenting maker label on interior lid “J.W BENNETT, GOLDSMITH & WATCHMAKER, 16, LLOYD SQUARE, W.C. MASONIC ORDERS EXECUTED”, measuring 210 mm diameter, with functional pushed-button clasp, exterior showing wear surfaces on the edges, case near very fine condition.

Footnote: The Lancastrian Collar of Esses was introduced in the late 1300s, but revived by Henry VII in 1845. As an important piece of the late-medieval livery system, the collar was a prestigious symbol of royal power. It would only be awarded to the rank of esquire and above. The ‘S’ has been widely research, possibly representing a combination of saintete (sanctity), sagesse (wisdom), and seigneurie (lordship). However, Soverayne, meaning Sovereign is the most supported, especially in relation to Henry IV. The Portcullis was the Badge of John Beaufort, Marquees of Dorset & Somerset, the son of John Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster and great-grandfather of Henry VII. Henry adopted the symbol and it was used by the first and second Tudor dynasties. Presently, the portcullis is crowned, officially making it a royal symbol and can be found in the Palace of Westminster. The design in which the central link or hanging badge depicts the Crowned Floral Badge is reminiscent of the Esses Collar of the Sergeant-at-Arms. The company of J.W Bennett located in Lloyd Square was destroyed in the Second World War, along with all documentation associated. 

This offering is a part of the "Dr. Albert Goodwin Collection", a preeminent assemblage of world Orders, Medals, and Decorations composed solely by Dr.Goodwin between 1946-1967. Dr. Goodwin had a successful career as an educator and prominent physician in New York as well as actively serving in both World Wars with the United States Medical Corps. He acted as both President and Vice-President of the Orders and Medals Society of America (OMSA) and is responsible for organizing their first convention in 1960. He maintained further membership with the American Society of Military Collectors, the International Orders Research Society, and the American Numismatic Society. His knowledge and passion for history and awards is evident in this meticulously compiled collection that is now available in its entirety for the first time exclusively on eMedals.com.